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Chicken.Kiev >> «Chicken.Kiev» internet-magazine >> Dying young

October 23. Wine tasting. Concord restaurant.

October 23, Tuesday. For the third time, Concord is holding a wine tasting event. This wine tasting can by now almost be considered a tradition. This time, to the judgment of the professionals, were brought the wines of Georgia. Unfortunately it was impossible to cover the whole assortment of Georgian wines, and therefore only the most well-known wine brands were chosen for this occasion: Tsinandali, Mukuzani and Kindzmarauli. The wine tasting took place in three rounds according to the types of wines represented.

Companies offering wines for tasting:

1. Olever (Teliani Valley)
2. Rioni (Tamada, GWS)
3. Orlando (Talisman, Talev Wine Cellar)
4. Dolmart-Ukraina (Tbilvino)
5. Premiumvino (Vaziani)

The Jury:

1. Serhii Husovskij
2. Serhii Shevyrev
3. Hryhol Katamadze (the Georgian Ambassador to Ukraine)
4. Ihor Dziuba

Wine review:

(a selection of some of the most interesting comments)

Vazisubani (Vaziani)

A calm and austere color. The aroma does not disclose itself. A denominating grassy texture. A smooth aftertaste as a result of harmonic taste and plain texture. The wine is unusual for the European tradition. Disarming naivete. The aroma fails by not leaving an aftertaste that urges one to taste the wine more and more.

Round 1.

Tsinandali, GWS, Tamada (3)

A pleasant, warm color, devoid of reflectivity. Elegant with a slight oily flavor and a subtle bitterness, although the savory origin in the aftertaste leaves a discernible trace. An insufficiently balanced specimen.
The color is transparent and pleasant. Oily, and a splendid bouquet.

Tsinandali, Teliani Veli (4)
Very peculiar with a rich aroma and green tincture. The flavor is rather transparent. A fresh taste and aroma, with a brisk aftertaste.
A rich aroma with good potential. A reserved taste.
A pleasant color gamut with a weak perception of taste.

Tsinandali, Talisman (1)

A splendid bouquet of immature wine. Possibly not fully expressed but with considerable potential. Nice transparency in color, however deprived of depth and intensity. The taste is typical with a conspicuously dry finish.

Tsinandali Tbilvino (2)

The deep color, seemingly lax with a suggestion of "appropriate" aging. A "hot" wine. It feels like the wine has just been brought from the cellar. A wonderful color gamut, and astonishing taste.

Round 2.

Mukuzani Tbilvino (3)

A pleasant color with sufficient transparency, however lacking reflectivity. An orange meniscus. The austere aroma, without halftones, unravelingly reveals the fruit flavorings.
In spite of mediocre characteristics, the wine is harmonically composed, and does not defeat expectations.

Mukuzani TVP, Talisman (1)

A solid color with a grenadine hue. An expressively strong aroma. A Khakheti classic wine, with an oily consistency.
A bright ruby-grenadine color, however deprived of sufficient consistency. A pleasant and intense aroma with rather active tannin.

Mukuzani, Viziani (4)

A powerful, direct aroma with an expressive attack of tannin in taste. A very courageous and complicated wine.
A weak wine, with an unpleasant "deaf" hue to its aroma. The taste has irritating tones and stale accents dominate.

Mukuzani, Teliani Valley (2)

A medium color, with elements of emulsion. A consistent wine, with a solid halo and base. A wine suited more to "shashlyk" than to noble cheeses.
A wonderful, full color. A thick aroma, with the characteristic features of good Italian style. Great frustration with the taste. A second wave brings an almost limey taste.

Mukuzani GWS, Tamada (1)

A deep color and high degree of transparency. A presumable excess in spirit. On the whole rather harsh but a stable taste without extremes. A nice looking wine, with a full-bodied, ruby color. The aroma is a little shaded by the spirits. A stable and characteristic taste. In general - a nice balance.

Round 3

Kindzmarauli, Tbilvino (4)

An expressive aroma, solid, and nice color. A steady taste, with no surprises, being direct and smooth.

Kindzmarauli, TVP, Talisman (2)

Clear color with warm shades and a light orange reflectivity. A well-established wine with a defined taste with sugar not dominating and a pleasant "tanginess" at the end.

Kindzmarauli, Teliani Valley (1)

A thick color and solid consistency make this wine a very pleasant type. Slightly excessively tangy, although probably an advantage, in spite of a slightly "watery" ending, or rather a lack of an expected solidity in the taste.

Kindzmarauli, Vaziani (3)

A pleasant color. An aroma with elements of coriander. A very "female" wine with a good base.

Kindzmarauli GWS (1)

A rich and "lavish" super-active aroma. A noble and aristocratic bouquet. Soft, assimilated sugar with a pleasant aftertaste.

 

Comments by the organizers.

On the whole, the results of tasting are compliant with what one might expect. The highest ratings corresponded to the well-known and well-promoted brands. None of the producers gained a landslide victory. Some had better Tsinandali, while others offered better Mukuzani and Kindzmarauli (e.g. GWS, Tamada, with obviously successful Mukuzani and Kindzmarauli and low marks for Tsinandali). From the point of view of the supplier's selection, Talisman is an attractive brand with a good price/quality relationship. In general, judging by the jury's comments, all wines are of good quality and have individual traits.

Unfortunately, the biggest problem the organizers face during such events is the selection of a highly-qualified and knowledgeable jury. This time, virtually all jury members (with the exception, of course, of the Georgian Ambassador) are connoisseurs rather of the European wines, than of Georgian ones. Hence, the wines were evaluated primarily in line with European traditions. Although the Georgian wines are very individual in nature and often require a different approach to the wines to which Europe is accustomed. The most important thing to value in Georgian wines is their peculiarity and unique style. And we can only honor the Georgian winemakers for maintaining the traditions of their national craft, in a world where the Bordeaux style receives much wider recognition and where wines deprived of names like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or any other typically French type of grape are practically devoid of any chance of global recognition.

We would like to thank all the companies which offered their wine for tasting and to congratulate the private companies, Rioni, Olever and Orlando, with their winning wines at the tasting session.



 
 
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UKRAINIAN CUISINE

Budmo, hey! (Let's be!) The first thing which comes to my mind... No, that's not what I should say. The first picture which my imagination paints when I hear the words "the Ukrainian cuisine" is an episode from the movie of Hohol's "Evenings in the hamlet near Dykanka", where varenyky, having rolled around by themselves in sour cream, jump into Patsiuk(The Rat)'s mouth. What a great moment! What a great delicacy! And what a great way to eat it! It is certainly a pity that nobody has yet invented a "remote control for the mouth and the plate", and the above method of delivering food into the mouth is just the devil's trick or Hohol's project that is impossible to implement. But then, the amount of halushky (by the way, in a big, big bowl) is just right for our healthy and inspired Ukrainian appetite! Never mind how other people eat, but we, not so rich people, or one can even say people very far from being rich, are used to eating in grand style. It is not without reason that our phrase, "Love comes and goes, but you will always want to eat!", simply does not translate well into other languages - probably foreigners simply just do not have such words. So, what am I talking about? Oh yeah, about the unmatched Ukrainian cuisine! "There's no fish better than tench, and no meat better than pork." Among all the dishes of Ukrainian cuisine, for example, that of the very beginning of the XX century, one can single out several subcategories, which were the most popular among native Ukrainian people: those made from grains, beans, vegetables, and fruits. Note than in the old days, dishes made from meat were considered food for festive days only, and among all the existing kinds of meat, the undisputable preference was given to pork and certainly (could there be any doubting it?) salo - oh, our Ukrainian salo!


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